To many, ‘tyre changing’ is profanity and is in a similar vein to ’skinned knuckles’, ‘pinched tube’, ’sweating profusely not having fun’ and Jock’s favourite ‘caaaaaarrrrnnt do it’.
Tyre changing is the demon that rider’s will pay to avoid.
Don recently paid 25 bucks to a mate to fit a rear tyre to his bike, with a group of mates sitting round in his shed, on the piss - out of sheer ‘can’t be bothered’.
I agree that at times it’s an unpalatable task. If it’s real hot, or real wet, or real cold and you’re out in the middle of nowhere, then it’s much more fun standing around watching someone else do it.
However, with a bit of a leg up on technique, a measured approach and a bit of practice, it can actually be quite simple and definately worth practicing to become adept at yourself. There’s not much doubt that one day you will have to remove a tyre and there won’t be a shop with a machine or a willing mate in sight.
Let’s start at the start. Warm rubber is softer and easier to manipulate, so get those tyres warm if possible. If you can, leave the new tyres in the sun to warm up while you take the bike for a spin for ten minutes to warm up your rubber.
Remember to wear your safety gear, as ‘just a quick blast’ is often accompanied by ‘not wearing enough protective stuff’ and a resultant painful injury. Also, changing a tyre is much easier when you’re wearing nylons, knee guards or braces and boots. Don’t dismiss that last line, or you’ll find out why painfully.
Of course, if you were organised, you could have a new tyre sitting in the sun for a few hours while you went for a decent ride with your mates and change them immediately upon your return. Carl, you could get some help from Eric at this stage.
So, step by step, let’s nail this sucker.
Put the bike on a decent stand, like this trick stainless TCR precision one I’ve had for six years.
Get all the tools out you’ll need.
Here I’ve got my two FORCE levers, which have specially designed tips to make your job easier. The tips are small and easier than most to use. As well, the tips are short and less likely to pinch a tube. They obviously have an axle nut spanner on each end, eliminating some heavy tools from your bumbag.
The levers have a similar tip to the Metzeler levers, long regarded as superior to all others simply because they had the best shape and size on their small tip.
A 12mm ratchet spanner for the rim lock is one of my favourites and really does save considerable time. Any 12 mm spanner will do, but a ring spanner is way better than an open ender. Both are much slower than the ratchet unit.
The valve removing tool is one of the few in my bumbag that has had size and weight added to it. A bit of dowel screwed and glued into the threaded end makes it much easier to use.
You’ll also want some baby powder and lubricant like Castrol DWF, plus spanners to adjust your chain if need be.
Put your FORCE spanner on the axle nut and give it a kick with your Alpinestars to loosen it.
Then remove your nut, washer and axle block.
Then use your FORCE lever to help poke the axle out.
This is generally easier than pulling the axle out from the other side. They are sometimes covered in sticky grease and after a while this sets to a glue - like substance and the axle becomes recalcitrant. With the lever in place, just give the spanner end a whack with an open hand. It will only push in so far and won’t damage anything, leaving the axle part way out and easy to grab and pull from the other side.
Where do you put the axle?
Now kneel behind the back wheel. Grasp the wheel and push it forwards so the chain becomes loose. You might have to ‘jiggle’ the back wheel a little to move it forward. Don’t strongarm it, take your time.
Move your knee/leg up against the tyre to hold it forward and take the chain off the rear sprocket, starting at the top. It will just fall off the bottom usually. Lay the chain down on the swingarm to make your job easier later on.
Now lay the wheel down on the ground. I’m using an old cardboard box here to cushion the blow and keep the dirt and grease off Honda’s concrete. In the bush, I just lay it on the dirt if I have to. If you can find grass, even better. Just remember to use a rag or at least a finger to clean the crud out of the wheel spacers before you put it back on the bike.
Put the wheel disc side down first and take the valve out.
With the air out now, push the valve in with your fingers.
Then remove the little rubber grommet thingy that Honda use to help keep crud out of the oversized valve stem hole that allows the valve to move about and not tear off in the event a rim lock fails. (Interesting sentence structure here best described as ‘not real good’ - no apologies at 6 a.m.)
Now take your special ratchet spanner and undo the rim lock nut.
Don’t take the nut right off, the rimlock can stay where it is and doesn’t require removal, just loosening right off.
Now we have to break the bead. This is a must but not that hard most of the time. The exception can be a tyre that’s been on there for years and not warmed up properly. If your tyre was put on by moses, make sure the ride the bike beforehand to warm it up properly, or you may be cursing at this stage.
Stomp around the bead with your boots until you’ve got it all free.
Note that some riders like to sit the wheel on top of another tyre to do this part. The theory is there’s less chance of damaging the disc when you’re stomping to break the bead of the tyre off the rim. In practice though, I’ve never used a second tyre and have never bent a disc. I’ve done hundreds of tyres, but if you want to use a second tyre, go for it. If you weigh 130 kgs and go to the gym for kicks, then definately use a second tyre to protect the disc.
Then, flip the wheel over and do the same on the other side. Don’t be so scared this time, as it’s now the sprocket on the ground. You can go hard and kick the shit out of it.
Check that the bead is broken properly.
Now it’s time to use your FORCE levers. I like to work with the levers in front of me. I know others who like to work with the levers on the opposite side of the tyre, furthest away from them. I don’t think it really matters much and is personal preference. I believe that my way allows me a better view of where I’m putting the lever tip.
Just wiggle both lever tips between the rim and the tyre. Starting at 90 degrees from the rim lock seems to work well for me. The little curves on the end of each lever at the tip will ‘click’ into place when they are in the right spot. If unsure, insert then re - insert the lever a few times to get used to the feeling of the lever locating nicely in position.
Initially, the levers are only a few inches apart.
Now, you may have to use a little force here. Both levers should be folded over at the same time. Tuck one under the disc to keep it there.
Now you’ll see why we started with the disc down to break the bead. When you flipped it to put it sprocket side down, you left the disc upright. The disc is much less likely to scar your knuckles compared with the evil teeth of the sprocket. Plus, the disc is smaller and gives us more room to move with our hands.
So, leave that lever tucked under the disc and take the other lever out.
Re - insert the other lever a few inches either side of the first. Select the spot to put it by trial and error. The best spot is where it goes in easiest, normally perhaps four or five inches around. If it resists going in, pull it out and try another spot nearby. Don’t try to take too big of a bite though or it will be hard to lever over.
Note that there is a simple way to extract the lever each time. If you just pull on it, it may take considerable force to remove, adding to your pain (sorry - I meant detracting from your enjoyment).
When you’ve levered over, just push the top of the lever over away from the bit of tyre that you’ve already started peeling off the rim. The tip will simply fall out without a struggle.
Then you just keep levering a bit of tyre off at a time. Spin the wheel around so you are always working in front of your body, not skewed off to one side.
At a certain stage the lever that was under the disk will just fall out. Place it to one side with your stash of tools, you’ll need it again later.
When you’ve got one side of the tyre right off, then it’s time to remove the tube. Push the valve in with your fingers, then reach in and pull the tube out, starting with the valve. I like to have my hand in the shape shown below to grab the valve itself.
Once you’ve got a little of the tube out, I like to stand the tyre up and use both hands to push downwards on the tube, using my body weight to force it out, not just my arms. Gravity is helping me out.
Now the tube is fully out, we have to get the tyre off. Firstly, make sure the tyre bead is sitting off the rim and into the valley of the rim, at the rim lock. This gives you maximum free play on the side you want to lever. Ensure the rim lock is pushed down like so:
Now, place the wheel with the rim lock at the bottom and insert a lever into the tyre from the valley side as shown here:
You only stick it in about this far. Then you have to use a bit of force to lever it over towards the tyre to peel it right off the rim.
Now you’ll get a full appreciation of the value of doing this in bike gear, especially the knee guards.
Use your knee to push down firmly on the tyre to peel it right off the rim. Use body weight not leg power.
Do that a couple of times and the rim will fall away from the tyre.
I dare you to try this in your shorts and thongs. I may be getting soft, but when I try it, the tyre knobs grab hold of the skin and hair on my knee and make my face contort into a wierd, pained look.
Whilst it’s apart, check your rim tape for damage. I like to run two loops of electrical tape to cover the spoke nipples, but duct tape also works well.
If you have sensibly re drilled your rim to position the rim lock four spaces away from the valve hole, then you have been able to discard the rubber rim tape that comes standard and use tape to cover the nipples at described above.
You can also now fit your new tyre using a more simple method. If you haven’t, then the alternative method you must use is shown a bit further on.
Prepare the tube for fitment by covering it with baby powder. The baby powder provides some lubrication and helps you to avoid pinch flats, where the tube is holed if it’s squished between the tyre and the rim. The powder helps it ’slip out’ instead of rupturing.
It is more time consuming, but can help, if you put the valve back in along with a little air to puff the tube out. I like to rub the powder all over the tube with my hands. A bit messy, but it ensures complete coverage.
Pip Harrison, Honda tech guru, simply avoids all this mess by pouring a heap of powder into the tyre before he inserts the tube. His method is less messy, but I prefer mine. Do whatever you want.
Tubes come with two nuts on the valve stem. Leave the larger one there, but take the thinner one off and leave it in your ’spare nut container’, to never be used again and despite the fact you have accumulated 47 over the years, are unlikely to ever throw out.
Next, fit the odourously pleasant tube into your tyre.
Then, use a ‘CRC’ type lubricant such as Castrol Dewatering Fluid (DWF) to lube up the tyre, to make it much easier to slide the rim into position.
Now you can fit the rim to the tyre. My rim holes are set up so that I fit the rim ‘disc side into the tyre’ with the rim lock tucked into the leading side of the tyre. Line the valve up with it’s hole as you slot the rim lock into the tyre.
Now, put some fingers under the valve and stick it up through it’s hole. Once it’s in, which is simple, put the rubber grommet thingy back on and then the valve cap. This keeps it in place to prevent later heartache.
Before you go pushing like mad and getting nowhere, first make sure that the rimlock is pushed down and the bottom of the bead is sitting in the wheel valley, so you have maximum freeplay up to where you’re going to be pushing.
Now use your left hand (fingers really) to grab the tyre bead on the near side (opposite the side the rim is on) and as you try to pull the tyre onto the rim, at the same time you are trying to push the rim into the tyre. You can lean on the rim with your knees perhaps. Try to use bodyweight.
The rim should, with a little bit of effort, just pop onto the tyre. If it won’t, try pushing down and pulling up harder. If you are really struggling, visit the rim lock again to make sure it’s positioned right.
So now we have one side of the tyre back onto the rim. Drag out those Force levers again, you’re nearly home.
Lay the wheel down on the ground again and slide both tyre levers into the gap as shown. Again, they only go in far enough that they ‘click’ into position, this time on the rim. I like to start at 90 degrees from the rim lock.
Fold the levers over, then kneel on the bit of tyre you just folded to help stop it going back where it was. Keep on lever in place, folded over, to help.
Keep going around with the other lever, taking whatever sized bites you can make work. If you get too greedy, you’ll work that out soon enough when the tyre bead pops back out and you have to use the lever again in the same spot.
At about the half way point I prefer to stand on the wheel. I put my feet on the bead at both points just before it is levered onto the rim. You can also continue to kneel. If you do nothing, the tyre tends to pop back off and undo all your good levering.
When you get to the rim lock, you should push the nut in, pushing the rim lock into the tube/tyre so that you can get the bead into the gap between the tyre and the rim lock.
When you’re near the end, it’s really important to make sure that on the other side of the wheel, the tyre bead is in the valley, so you have maximum free play. Otherwise, your levering will bring immediate sweat and profanity. This is what you don’t want it to look like.
If it looks like that, kick it, so that it looks like this:
When you get to the last bit, you might have trouble getting the lever tip in between the tyre and the rim where you want to lever. What I do then is the put the lever in in the middle of the tyre bit that’s not yet on the rim, where there’s the most room, then shimmy it around to the spot I want to lever. This usually has to happen only once.
Then I’m often left with a four to six inch bit of tyre not quite over the rim yet. Kick the bastard again and it will comply. Funny how things comply when you kick them. I don’t recommend it on anything other than tyres.
Congrats, your tyre is on. Now pump the bugger up. You have to put in sufficient air to ’seat the bead’ at least at the rim lock. It only really matters that the tyre is properly seated (you’ll see it ‘pop’ onto the rim as you inflate) at the rim lock. The rest of the tyre will seat itself as you ride.
Once seated at the rim lock, tighten the rim lock nut up good and tight. I like to do ‘em real tight, sort of ‘not far off too tight’.
Time to put the wheel back into the bike. Sounds easy, but again, slow and easy with some planning makes this task easier.
Get behind the bike and carefully line up the disc with the brake pads. Keep and eye on the wheel spacers as you slot the wheel in, they are easy to knock on the swingarm. Take this bit slowly. If you go fast, you’ll most likely knock the brake pads out of whack and the wheel spacers with them, stuffing the whole entry thing right up. If you do, relax, take a breath, re position your bits and have another go, carefully.
Get right behind the back wheel now and use your knee to push the wheel forwards. Re fit the chain, starting at the bottom of the sprocket. Then make a grab for your axle and gently slide it into place. If it won’t go in nicely, ‘jiggle’ the back wheel whilst still pushing on the axle.
Re fit your nut etc. as shown.
Use your Force lever to tighten the nut. How tight? Real tight I reckon. Near full noise with a short lever like the Force tool. Not quite full noise, but not far short of it. Nobody wants their back wheel trying to fall off. I’ve seen chains smash engine cases when back wheel nuts weren’t done up properly and stuff that.
Whilst tightening the nut, lean on the back of the tyre with your body and use your left hand to push down on the chain. This helps locate the back wheel against the adjustment blocks firmly. Some like to use the old ’spanner between the chain and back sprocket’ trick. Either way is fine.
Can we go riding yet? No. Check your tyre pressure.
What about you guys who haven’t yet relocated your rim lock to four spaces from your valve?
You’ve gotta do things a little differently and there’s a neat trick here to make that easier.
You fit the tyre to the rim the same way, but you haven’t yet fitted the tube into the tyre. Still spray with Castrol DWF and use the same method to push the rim into the tyre, just no tube yet.
Once you get one side of the tyre on, the you have to lay the wheel down and fit the tube.
Once you have it in, here’s the secret to getting the valve into it’s hole.
You put your hand into the tyre, with your fingers on top of the tube. Your thumb however goes under the tube and guides the valve towards the hole, whilst you lever yourself some room as shown below.
So you are levering on one side whilst your hand is on the other. If you don’t lever, the tyre bead likes to sit in the valley and block the valve’s access to the hole, often creating major frustration and sore fingers.
Before you take your left hand out, take time to fit the rubber grommet thingy and valve cap to the valve stem, or you’ll regret it later.
Now flip the wheel over and lever the tyre onto the rim the same way as described earlier.
Thanks to Honda’s resident photographic guru Graeme Baynes for the quality shots, Force for the trick new levers, Metzeler for the MC5’s and Heavy Duty tubes, Castrol for the DWF spray, TCR Precision for the quicklift stand and Home Brand or whoever for the powder.
Now go ride.